Naxos
(excerpt from the book ''52 eyelands: a sentimental journey through the Greek islands''
History goes first. There is a sad story about Theseus, an ancient hero who you may have not heard of or not remember of exactly what his achievement were, besides ancient Greece is full of heroes. Maybe the name Minotaur rings a bell a bit more. Fine, let’s narrate the story. Theseus kills Minotaur, in reality in this way Athens ceases the sovereignty of the Minoans. Minotaur was a beast. Theseus needed Ariadne’s help and love in order to exterminate it. But during the journey back, the beautiful princess of Crete was of no use anymore. So, he left her somewhere in the Aegean Sea. This is how Dionysus found her in Naxos island, although there are other islands that claim her too.
There is a series of family islands in Greece, in all of its island complexes. I am under the impression that Naxos, Ariadne’s island, it the most beautiful among these. Of course, if beauty is something subjective, I would rather say “rich”, it is a rich island. In every sense –regarding the things it can provide us. Sufficiency, calmness, peacefulness, respect to its history, balance and also something that in most Cycladic islands impossible to encounter: space. Naxos is the largest island in Cyclades Prefecture and in reality, one of the largest ones in Greece...
Which are the strong points of this island? Let’s say what is not good. Naxos enjoys the whole beauty of Cyclades without the negative features that the touristic development of the busy neighboring islands brings along. But certainly this does not happen in every part of the island. Around the Chora of Naxos, the Beast has played its own game. It has converted the site in a relief of Modern Greek ugliness. But only there you will find something like this. Inevitably, you will have to pass from this point in order to enter to the heart of Chora, the Castle, the Portara (Big Door), the Museums, and the archeological site of Grapa. Enter and find the fantastic small pastry shops, bars and tavernas which lie in the inner part of a town tormented from the crazy residential kitsch that unfortunately burdens every provincial town in Greece. However, we try to forget about that, we keep the beautiful side of Chora and we travel throughout the island.
We travel in Castles: the castle of Apalirou in Sagri village, the Apano (Upper) Castle, in Tragea, in Venetian Towers, the Tower of Chimarou and the Tower of Aghias, in archeological sites such as the one in Palaiopyrgos (Old Tower) in Plaka or Dionysus’ sanctuary in Livadi (Field). We look for the majestic statues of Kouroi which remain solid (most likely, an accident during their transfer, detain them forever in the island and gave us the opportunity to admire them from close) near Apollonas village in the towering –for Cycladic standards- mountain of Naxos, Za (Jupiter) where there is also the homonymous cave.
I should mention the Byzantine Monastery of Fotodotis Christos in Danakos village as well as the Monastery of Panagia Ypsilotera in Galini (Serenity) village. Also, the churches of Panagia Protothroni in Chalki village –the largest one in the island- and the church of Panagia Drosiani in Moni. Later on, I am writing about Apeirathos village (one of the most beautiful villages in Greece). As for the seacoasts, the entire Naxos is an endless coast, I will begin from the shoreline that starts from the capital and extends for about ten kilometers (!) –it is the most typical touristic coastal part of Naxos- with the beaches Aghios Georgios, Aghios Prokopios, Aghia Anna and Plaka. A little further down in the east, we can choose among Vigla (Watchtower), Aliko (Red) and Pyrgaki (Little tower) beaches. In the south you must definitely see Kalantos and right on the opposite side towards the north, the picturesque Lionas beach. In Naxos I had one of the most terrible hangovers of my life, but it was not the island’s fault...
**
text & photos of this blog by Gregory Papadoyiannis
-
''52 eyelands: a sentimental journey through the Greek islands''
is available through:
paraxenesmeres.gr (paperback)
amazon.com (kindle edition)
(excerpt from the book ''52 eyelands: a sentimental journey through the Greek islands''
History goes first. There is a sad story about Theseus, an ancient hero who you may have not heard of or not remember of exactly what his achievement were, besides ancient Greece is full of heroes. Maybe the name Minotaur rings a bell a bit more. Fine, let’s narrate the story. Theseus kills Minotaur, in reality in this way Athens ceases the sovereignty of the Minoans. Minotaur was a beast. Theseus needed Ariadne’s help and love in order to exterminate it. But during the journey back, the beautiful princess of Crete was of no use anymore. So, he left her somewhere in the Aegean Sea. This is how Dionysus found her in Naxos island, although there are other islands that claim her too. 
Which are the strong points of this island? Let’s say what is not good. Naxos enjoys the whole beauty of Cyclades without the negative features that the touristic development of the busy neighboring islands brings along. But certainly this does not happen in every part of the island. Around the Chora of Naxos, the Beast has played its own game. It has converted the site in a relief of Modern Greek ugliness. But only there you will find something like this. Inevitably, you will have to pass from this point in order to enter to the heart of Chora, the Castle, the Portara (Big Door), the Museums, and the archeological site of Grapa. Enter and find the fantastic small pastry shops, bars and tavernas which lie in the inner part of a town tormented from the crazy residential kitsch that unfortunately burdens every provincial town in Greece. However, we try to forget about that, we keep the beautiful side of Chora and we travel throughout the island. We travel in Castles: the castle of Apalirou in Sagri village, the Apano (Upper) Castle, in Tragea, in Venetian Towers, the Tower of Chimarou and the Tower of Aghias, in archeological sites such as the one in Palaiopyrgos (Old Tower) in Plaka or Dionysus’ sanctuary in Livadi (Field). We look for the majestic statues of Kouroi which remain solid (most likely, an accident during their transfer, detain them forever in the island and gave us the opportunity to admire them from close) near Apollonas village in the towering –for Cycladic standards- mountain of Naxos, Za (Jupiter) where there is also the homonymous cave.
**
text & photos of this blog by Gregory Papadoyiannis
-
''52 eyelands: a sentimental journey through the Greek islands''
is available through:
paraxenesmeres.gr (paperback)
amazon.com (kindle edition)
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